Lovin' the Cold Shoulder!

Every once and a while a dress comes along that is a WOW dress.  This is one of those kind of garments.  The first time I wore it to work, the first customer of the day comes in and comments, "I'm single with 2 kids."  I laughed and responded, "I'm married with 4 kids."  He sighed and said he figured as much because of the ring on my finger.  My boss said I looked nice, my mom stopped in and said, "Wow!  I like that dress!!"  And to top it off I forgot my lunch in my car so I headed out to get it when it was time for my lunch break.  While walking through a parking lot, a man with his two young kids stopped dead in his tracks and said to me, "Wow!  That's a GREAT dress."  Thus, I present my WOW dress lol:

Pamela's Patterns #116 Classic T-Shirt Dress

 

 

Additional Views

Pattern:  This dress was made from Pamela's T-shirt Dress Pattern, #116 , made in Pamela's Knit's

Fits class in Philly a few months ago.  I traced off my original pattern, and this is my 3rd version of the dress.  My second one is found Here.and I have yet to review the first dress (maybe next week).  I can't praise this pattern enough.  It is ripe for plenty of pattern hacks in addition to the numerous necklines, sleeve lengths, and hemlines built into the pattern. 

Fabric:  I made this out of a beautiful, print ITY purchased during the Knits & Fits class and instantly knew what kind of dress to make with the fabric.  As usual, I make many alterations to make the pattern template "my own".  These were the alterations I made on my previous version above with additional alterations for my current dress in this review shown in red.

 

Alterations (Same as this previous version): 

1. 5/8" upper body horizontal tuck on both the front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces.  Pamela determined the amount of the tuck needed and this was wonderful for me.  I couldn't tell the exact amount needed on her patterns, and since she has fitted at least a thousand people or so, she can tell just by looking at a person's body.  So helpful.
2. Even though her patterns have a forward shoulder built in, I moved the entire shoulder seam allowance forward another 1/2" and added for 1" shoulder seam allowances.  This is pretty much what I do on all patterns and I tweak it in fabric as needed.
3. Repositioned the dart and dart legs.  I loathe bust darts that are perfectly horizontal or close to it.  I've found that lower, more angled darts are more flattering on my body, kind of like French darts.  Also adjusted the dart point lower about 1/2" and tweaked in fabric.
4. Altered the sleeve for forward shoulder by removing a 1/2" from the front sleeve seam allowances and moving it to the back sleeve seam allowances.  I have always been skeptical this would work well, and was pleased that this easy fix was a piece of cake that solved an issue I was making more complex (in pattern alterations) than it really was.  Needless to say, I told Pamela I was thrilled that this worked.
5. Pamela pin-fitted the side seams on my figure for a flattering silhouette.  It's always helpful when someone with such extensive fitting talent can do this for me.   She knew the fit I was trying to achieve and with her help, I got it!
6. Finally, on this version I added princess seams to the back pattern piece.  I could have created a center back seam since that is an option on this pattern, but a center back seam has never solved my fit issues at all.  Two princess seams can achieve, on my figure, what a center back seam simply cannot do.  My bumps are my prominent shoulder blades curving in to a small center back.  Princess seams are the most flattering lines on my body, and years ago I was so resistant to them.  I thank the late, great Shannon Gifford for her expertise and guidance in this area.  She made me a convert, and now I love them.  My princess seams are tweaked to my curves providing a more flattering fit.

Additional Alterations for this version:

 

1.  Cold Shoulder Cutouts.  I sliced 2 1/2" off the sleeve caps allowing for a 1/2" seam allowance.  In retrospect, I would have preferred to cut off 2 allowing for a 1/2" seam allowance.  The sleeve dragged downward, and it didn't look right to me.  So the old noodle got a hummin' and I created a tuck at the top center of the sleeve, created a casing, and added 1/4" elastic so the top of the sleeve would hug my arm.  Voila!  Much better.  Shoulda, woulda, coulda...I knew Pamela had a quick tute on the cold shoulder cutout but I couldn't remember the link so I just did my own thing.  After the dress was finished, my coworker reminded where it was.  It's Here!  I'm going to try Pamela's tute next time.

 

2.  Side Seam Tweaking.  I wanted more of a bodycon look this time.  Not tight, just form fitting. 

 

Likes/Dislikes:

 

No dislikes.  I LOVE this pattern.  It is ripe for pattern modifications galore.  I'm going to introduce my daughter to this pattern because it's easy to alter and stitch up.

 

Likes.  I covered that in my previous review.  Everything lol.  The instructions are excellent, the seam allowances are generous for fitting, two different fronts for smaller and larger cup sizes,  optional center back seam, all the neckline, sleeve, and hemline variations, the "average" woman sizing block, and YouTube video tips.  There is PLENTY of help in the pattern.

 

Final Thoughts:

 

Are you an average woman?  I am.  Birthed 4 kids, reached the 50 milestone, and the figure variations I want to camouflage can be done easily with this pattern for the average woman.  Simplicity in a pattern can be our best friend.  Simple lines + fitting skills = A Flattering Fit.  Check out Pamela's Patterns.  They don't disappoint!  I own her entire line of patterns :) .

 

Beauty of Bargello

My first, finished quilting project: 

 

My quilted Bargello Wall Hanging!

Note:  I don't consider myself a quilter.  I'm not terribly interested in quilting as I'm a passionate garment sewer.  However, once I started working in the sewing & quilting industry, I found there were different types of quilts and quilting techniques that were very beautiful, one being bargello quilting.  It looked like a beautiful, moving wave in a rainbow of colors.

 

Originally, it seemed to be a very tedious and time-consuming type of quilt--all those little tiny squares sewn together..."sew" NOT for me.  Fast forward to the day when I was discussing bargello quilts with a coworker, and she explained how easy it is to make one.  She must have explained it to me 5 confusing times lol, and then I got it!  Head smack--yes!  It is VERY easy to do!!  Wow.

 

After finishing one of my embroidery projects, my table was filled with jelly roll remnants from a Hoffman Batik packaged roll.  What to do...a small, Bargello wall hanging.  I didn't need any directions, I already had been explained the concept.  Not only that, I free motion quilted the border, ditch stitched the bargello design, and applied the binding the Missouri Star Quilt Company way.

 

Close up of the free motion quilting in progress.  Not perfect, but one of my first attempts on a project that actually got finished.  Unseen is the stitch in the ditch quilting because...it's in the ditch!  :)

I really like the result, and my wall hanging is now hung decorating the wall in my bathroom.  It was a very worthwhile endeavor.  My goal is to learn more about quilting in order to help my customers in a more knowledgeable way.  There is ALWAYS something to learn in the industry, and broadening my horizons in the area of quilting is a big plus.  Why?  I've learned an exactness that didn't exist in my garment sewing world because much of the time being a little off is not a big deal.  In fact, I consider myself a better garment sewer now because of the preciseness required of a quilter, albeit a novice one.

 

Final analysis:  This was a learning project, and I love the result.  My love will always be garment sewing, but there is room for occasional quilting projects.  There are times when I'm tired and simply want to sit and sew.  Quilting lends itself to this, because garment sewing is an up and down thing.  The actual time spent at a machine is much less than a quilter working on a quilt. 

 

Time and place.  There is room for both in my life.  Never say never!

 

Happy Stitching,

 

--Kat

Block It and Rock It!

At some point I'll do a 5-star review of Pamela Leggett's Workshops, but until then, this is one of the garments made in her Knits and Fits, Philly workshop a few months ago.  I love her patterns as they're comfortably sized and are easy to alter for fit and modifications, and the #116 Classic T-Shirt dress is an awesome pattern!

 

Pamela's Patterns #116 Classic T-Shirt Dress
Colorblocked Version

 

 

The pattern description is as follows:

"A modern t-shirt dress that fits your upper AND lower body is now possible.  The classic style is perfect for any occasion--dressy, casual or work.  The best part of a nice dress?  You only need one piece of clothing to look fabulous!  Pamela's Patterns are designed with the most common fit alterations built right in --high round back, forward shoulder, full bust option, extra hip/tummy room, and a great fit in the neck and shoulder."

Sizing:  For the sizing, I used Small (34-36" high bust measurement) with the darted front option because I'm a C cup.

Fabrics:  A Scuba knit that has been aging in my stash, and a nice-quality pleather.

Pattern Picture Vs. Reality: 

Yes, all my versions including this one looked like the pattern cover!  I made the t-shirt dress, a color-blocked dress, and a cut-out sleeve option version too.  This review is on my color-blocked version.

Likes & Dislikes about the Pattern:

Love the basic style with plenty of version suggestions including princess-seaming.  Pamela is detailed and thorough with her instructions and includes areas where she provides additional support via YouTube tutorials.  Various necklines, hemline and sleeve lengths are included for customization.  Once fitted, the pattern is super easy to modify for different looks if one possesses basic patternmaking skills.  The darted and undarted fronts are a great option, and the built-in extra room allows for easy draping on the body to customize the fit.

Dislikes?  Nothing.  I'm easy to please. Just give me a well-designed pattern, and I'm good to go!

My Pattern Alterations and Design Changes:

I took the color blocking suggestion and drew in my colorblocking seamlines on a copied pattern from my altered, master pattern.  If  you do this, make sure to mark the grainlines on all pieces before cutting them out individually.  Add seam allowances  as needed. 

Alterations: 

1. 5/8" upper body horizontal tuck on both the front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces.  Pamela determined the amount of the tuck needed and this was wonderful for me.  I couldn't tell the exact amount needed on her patterns, and since she has fitted at least a thousand people or so, she can tell just by looking at a person's body.  So helpful.
2. Even though her patterns have a forward shoulder built in, I moved the entire shoulder seam allowance forward another 1/2" and added for 1" shoulder seam allowances.  This is pretty much what I do on all patterns and I tweak it in fabric as needed.
3. Repositioned the dart and dart legs.  I loathe bust darts that are perfectly horizontal or close to it.  I've found that lower, more angled darts are more flattering on my body, kind of like French darts.  Also adjusted the dart point lower about 1/2" and tweaked in fabric.
4. Altered the sleeve for forward shoulder by removing a 1/2" from the front sleeve seam allowances and moving it to the back sleeve seam allowances.  I have always been skeptical this would work well, and was pleased that this easy fix was a piece of cake that solved an issue I was making more complex (in pattern alterations) than it really was.  Needless to say, I told Pamela I was thrilled that this worked.
5. Pamela pin-fitted the side seams on my figure for a flattering silhouette.  It's always helpful when someone with such extensive fitting talent can do this for me.   She knew the fit I was trying to achieve and with her help, I got it!
6. Finally, on this version I added princess seams to the back pattern piece.  I could have created a center back seam since that is an option on this pattern, but a center back seam has never solved my fit issues at all.  Two princess seams can achieve, on my figure, what a center back seam simply cannot do.  My bumps are my prominent shoulder blades curving in to a small center back.  Princess seams are the most flattering lines on my body, and years ago I was so resistant to them.  I thank the late, great Shannon Gifford for her expertise and guidance in this area.  She made me a convert, and now I love them.  My princess seams are tweaked to my curves providing a more flattering fit.

Final Thoughts:

This pattern will become a staple and a basis for many future dresses and designs.  It is well drafted, has awesome instructions, and is perfect for all sewing levels.  It will be used over and over again, and is, in my opinion, a must-have pattern for those of us who are not shaped like 19-year old fit models.