Block It and Rock It!

At some point I'll do a 5-star review of Pamela Leggett's Workshops, but until then, this is one of the garments made in her Knits and Fits, Philly workshop a few months ago.  I love her patterns as they're comfortably sized and are easy to alter for fit and modifications, and the #116 Classic T-Shirt dress is an awesome pattern!

 

Pamela's Patterns #116 Classic T-Shirt Dress
Colorblocked Version

 

 

The pattern description is as follows:

"A modern t-shirt dress that fits your upper AND lower body is now possible.  The classic style is perfect for any occasion--dressy, casual or work.  The best part of a nice dress?  You only need one piece of clothing to look fabulous!  Pamela's Patterns are designed with the most common fit alterations built right in --high round back, forward shoulder, full bust option, extra hip/tummy room, and a great fit in the neck and shoulder."

Sizing:  For the sizing, I used Small (34-36" high bust measurement) with the darted front option because I'm a C cup.

Fabrics:  A Scuba knit that has been aging in my stash, and a nice-quality pleather.

Pattern Picture Vs. Reality: 

Yes, all my versions including this one looked like the pattern cover!  I made the t-shirt dress, a color-blocked dress, and a cut-out sleeve option version too.  This review is on my color-blocked version.

Likes & Dislikes about the Pattern:

Love the basic style with plenty of version suggestions including princess-seaming.  Pamela is detailed and thorough with her instructions and includes areas where she provides additional support via YouTube tutorials.  Various necklines, hemline and sleeve lengths are included for customization.  Once fitted, the pattern is super easy to modify for different looks if one possesses basic patternmaking skills.  The darted and undarted fronts are a great option, and the built-in extra room allows for easy draping on the body to customize the fit.

Dislikes?  Nothing.  I'm easy to please. Just give me a well-designed pattern, and I'm good to go!

My Pattern Alterations and Design Changes:

I took the color blocking suggestion and drew in my colorblocking seamlines on a copied pattern from my altered, master pattern.  If  you do this, make sure to mark the grainlines on all pieces before cutting them out individually.  Add seam allowances  as needed. 

Alterations: 

1. 5/8" upper body horizontal tuck on both the front, back, and sleeve pattern pieces.  Pamela determined the amount of the tuck needed and this was wonderful for me.  I couldn't tell the exact amount needed on her patterns, and since she has fitted at least a thousand people or so, she can tell just by looking at a person's body.  So helpful.
2. Even though her patterns have a forward shoulder built in, I moved the entire shoulder seam allowance forward another 1/2" and added for 1" shoulder seam allowances.  This is pretty much what I do on all patterns and I tweak it in fabric as needed.
3. Repositioned the dart and dart legs.  I loathe bust darts that are perfectly horizontal or close to it.  I've found that lower, more angled darts are more flattering on my body, kind of like French darts.  Also adjusted the dart point lower about 1/2" and tweaked in fabric.
4. Altered the sleeve for forward shoulder by removing a 1/2" from the front sleeve seam allowances and moving it to the back sleeve seam allowances.  I have always been skeptical this would work well, and was pleased that this easy fix was a piece of cake that solved an issue I was making more complex (in pattern alterations) than it really was.  Needless to say, I told Pamela I was thrilled that this worked.
5. Pamela pin-fitted the side seams on my figure for a flattering silhouette.  It's always helpful when someone with such extensive fitting talent can do this for me.   She knew the fit I was trying to achieve and with her help, I got it!
6. Finally, on this version I added princess seams to the back pattern piece.  I could have created a center back seam since that is an option on this pattern, but a center back seam has never solved my fit issues at all.  Two princess seams can achieve, on my figure, what a center back seam simply cannot do.  My bumps are my prominent shoulder blades curving in to a small center back.  Princess seams are the most flattering lines on my body, and years ago I was so resistant to them.  I thank the late, great Shannon Gifford for her expertise and guidance in this area.  She made me a convert, and now I love them.  My princess seams are tweaked to my curves providing a more flattering fit.

Final Thoughts:

This pattern will become a staple and a basis for many future dresses and designs.  It is well drafted, has awesome instructions, and is perfect for all sewing levels.  It will be used over and over again, and is, in my opinion, a must-have pattern for those of us who are not shaped like 19-year old fit models.