Shein...I got your number!

 *This is my entry for the PR Swimsuit Sewing Competition 2023.*

Patterns Used (hacked and modified for style and fit):  Patterns for Pirates Vixen Bralette 

and 5oo4 Ultimate Bikini Bottoms

Hey Shein (and other similar companies)!  I've got your number.  See this $17+ fringe bikini below?  $17!  Yeah, somebody or some people are getting screwed in the supply chain.  Don't get me started on how these types of companies screw over designers too.  So what did I do lol?  I copied Shein lol!  Here is my inspiration pic from their 2023 line (and who knows who Shein copied it from!). 

And here's my interpretation aka "knockoff" of Shein's knockoff:

The big difference between a $17 Shein fringe bikini and mine is QUALITY!  I used a beautiful, pastel-blue, shimmery, holographic print from telaslycra.com which was purchased in 2022.  This was my fave fabric of my entire swim fabric haul, and I was waiting for just the right pattern and style.  When I saw the fringe bikini above on the Shein website, I knew that was my concept photo for the fabric.

In addition, my swimwear includes lining on the front AND back of all my suits as well as smoothing Powermesh and slimming Powernet if necessary.  This bikini (for my figure) did NOT need Powernet, however all pieces except the bikini bottoms back did have Powermesh.  The Powermesh and the lining make for a "beefier", better-looking result in my opinion.

I hacked the P4P Vixen pattern front into two separate pieces by cutting the upper strap and adding a seam allowance.  My seam allowance at the connection point for my metal rings was created at 2".  This let me tweak the exact location for my figure and liking.  The excess was cut off where necessary.  I cut the Vixen band according to the pattern measurement and added 2" for tweaking.  It's okay for a band to be too long during the fitting process but NOT if it's too short.  I removed and adjusted the band during fitting.  My band was also two separate fabric pieces (not cut on fold) since I needed a seam on the bottom to add the fringe.  I made sure to have a large enough piece of fabric to be able to cut fringe.  I cut a longer-than-necessary fringe piece from selvedge to selvedge and spent an entire evening cutting 1/4" strips VERY carefully leaving 2 1/2" at the top uncut.  When done, I cut down the top edge leaving a 1/2" seam allowance above the fringe.  This seam allowance was sandwiched in between the inside and outside of the band (kind of like stitching piping) and basted to adjust fit.  Once the fit was nailed, the excess fringe was removed.  

Fitting is a lot of the process for me.  Once the fringe was basted into the seam and the fit was good, I permanently stitched it in as well as permanently stitched the connection points at the front rings which were still basted until the second to last fitting.  After all stitching was completed and the bikini top was done, the final fitting session was merely to assess the length of the fringe.  I marked where I wanted the bottom of the fringe should be on my body, and then cut off the excess.  Top was done!  I'm thrilled with the way it turned out.  The fringe has a two-tone, dimensional effect because the right side is the shimmery, holographic print, and the wrong side is a solid, matte blue.  I love that!  It gives added dimension to the bikini when it swishes with movement or wind.  

I've been asked about curling of the cut edges of the fringe.  I thought about that because the edges of this knit really wanted to curl.  I used Best Press with a press cloth on the swim fabric with an iron set to the synthetic setting.  Didn't seem like it did all that much.  I then sprayed lightly to moderately (but not soaked), Terial Magic on the back of the swim fabric with a press cloth and iron as well.  Again, it didn't seem like it did much.  I did cut out a a 2x10" or so sample to check for curling, and guess what...the edges STILL curled despite being treated!  So...I held my breath, cut the 1/4" strips, and they did NOT curl.  Perhaps it's because there is nothing to curl on a 1/4" wide strip!  That's my theory, and I'm sticking to it ;) .

The 5oo4 Bikini Bottoms were already altered to my figure based on plenty of previous bikini bottoms I've made and hacked as well.  This hack included narrowing the connection points on the bottoms and adding a 2" seam allowance to each side to be tweaked during fitting.  The excess seam allowance was cut off after fitting.  I do love how these bikini bottoms give plenty of bum coverage too.  I'm more inclined to leave the back thong look to my undergarments or bedroom attire.

Here is the bikini in the flat, front and back:

Overall, I'm very pleased with how my bikini turned out, and I like it much better than the Shein website fringe bikini.  And btw, that $17 Shein price tag?  Mine probably cost about the same, but I can guarantee mine is of top-notch quality, will last several seasons, is custom fitted for my figure in my chosen color and print, AND no one got screwed in the supply chain because I made my own.  Imagine that...Shein copying designers, but I copied Shein lol.  Funny how that works.

Would you like to sew your own swimwear?  It's NOT hard.  But it does take some know how, and I've definitely made mistakes along the way.  Let my mistakes help prevent you from making them too.  Watch my UPCOMING video, Top Swimwear Sewing Tips, on my Cyber Sewing School YouTube channel.  My hope is it can help you make an awesome swimsuit that you will be proud of and will last several seasons.  You CAN do it!

Until next time, Happy Sewing! 

--Kat

The Mara Clutch

Want a handbag in an exact color and style?  Make it!  2023 is my year to stretch my bagmaking skills to the next level, and I did so making the Mara Clutch by the Bagmaking Academy.  

Here is my video highlighting the versatility of the Mara Clutch!

Below are my two looks using the reversible flap.  One is a daytime version in black, the evening version has the bold, contrast pink flap:

 Use the bold, pink metallic for an edgy, evening look!

The Mara Clutch is a very versatile bag which features a unique, padded handle, reversible flap, and a chain which can be easily removed.  The wearer decides...handbag or clutch.  For this bag I used a matte, black vinyl with a slight, pebble texture and a gorgeous, shiny, metallic pink for the contrast.  The reversible flap magic is made possible with the use of Chicago screws, although if a reversible flap is not desired, rivets can be used instead.  

Opt for the black flap for a subdued, professional look.

Choose to use the strap for over-the-shoulder carrying or...

Opt for no strap for a comfortable clutch.

Here are some closeups.  The Chicago screws were used to attach the flap.  Keep a small screwdriver handy to remove the screws and reverse the flap, although you probably won't need it because they're hand tightened.  Takes about 2 minutes and is super easy.

Chicago Screws are perfect to use for the reversible flap

I wanted a hint of pink to show at the flap edge when reversed.

The top of the flap includes Force Fit Grommets.  If a larger chain is desired, adjust the size as desired.

Force Fit Grommets.  No stress/easy to install.

The strap includes a vinyl piece at the center for the shoulder area.

Ahhh...nothing like a bit of shoulder comfort on the strap.

The strap can be easily removed with needle-nose pliers, however, you can use lobster clips for the easiest and most versatile strap removeable.  You're the designer so you decide :) .  I love that the strap has a vinyl piece at the center so it is comfortable on the shoulder.  Don't want the strap?  No problem.  Remove it and you have a beautiful clutch which is easy to carry.  Your hand slips inside the padded strap, and it is very comfortable.  Force Fit Grommets were used on the top of the flap to hold the strap.

The inside of the bag has the upscale feel with the interfaced satin for the lining.  The pocket on one side is open and features a vinyl edge trim.  The other side of the bag has a zippered pocket with a stable zipper stay (NO wavy zippers!) and is fully lined.  The backside of the bag has a roomy pocket which can easily fit a cellphone.  

Open up the clutch for a peek inside.

One side of the interior includes a pop of the metallic pink vinyl at the edge.

The other side of the pocket includes a zipper with stay.  No wavy zips!

A beautiful, fully-lined zip pocket.  The interfaced satin feels upscale and luxurious.

Overall, I'm thrilled with how the bag turned out.  It does run on the larger size for a clutch, so my next version will be sized at 80%.  The second version will be in leather, potentially using two coordinating leathers in my stash.  It is immensely helpful to have at least a semi-commercial machine like a Janome HD-9, Juki 2010Q, Juki TL18 or the like along with extra, useful feet such as the narrow straight stitch foot, the walking foot, and the teflon foot.  If you own an industrial, that's the ultimate in perfection for home bagmaking.  Don't let these recommendations, however, prevent you from trying this bag pattern or something similar.  A good quality, mid to higher-end, domestic sewing machine that can handle heavier fabrics is a solid option.

What are you waiting for???  Get to it and make a bag :) !

Happy Sewing,

--Kat